Quaran-Cuisine: The Iso Kitchen Diaries IV
- Tasha's Eats
- May 21, 2020
- 6 min read
This week I had a sudden urge to make a fresh vegetable stock, that was triggered by attempting to make a vegan risotto that was perfect, but just missing a beat due to the veg stock pot I used. Other than lacking in freshness, there is something about a stock in which you can taste all the love, labour and comforting energy that goes into it. Almost as if all the moments of life and human dynamics that go in in the hours around the stock pot, while it sits there brewing and bubbling on the stove, are included in the final product. The more emotion, feeling and action that goes on in the heart of the kitchen, the richer the stock will taste. I am of course referring to the chicken stock that my mum makes on a weekly basis. However, since going predominantly plant-based, I am keen to replicate this with a vegetable stock. I imagine its more difficult to get that complexity of flavour, so I am making it my next challenge. Let’s see how it goes.
Another revelation of my week has been learning of the intricacy of the ‘perfect’ hummus. My friend recently challenged me to make the essential hummus and so I decided to do a bit of research to gage how traditional middle-eastern chefs made theirs. I always did make mine with dried chickpeas, as I knew this added to the creaminess and fuller taste. However, two tips I have learnt from my research is to remove the skins of chickpeas, by adding bicarb of soda before boiling them in water. This is designed to eliminate any graininess of texture and is inspired by @nourishbynoor. The second is to use ice cubes (!?) when blending the ingredients to make it even lighter and creamier. The difference of results is madness – give it a try!
Here are an assortment of dishes I have been trialling and testing over the past couple of weeks…
Chickpea and lentil coconut dal with homemade yoghurt flatbreads and beetroot kachumber/ /Avocado Caesar salad with baked tofu, crispy chickpeas and sourdough croutons/Spiced overnight oats/Jerk carrot and chickpea burgers with giant couscous and grilled fennel/Pad thai salad with buckwheat noodles and aubergine/Spiced za’atar hummus/Crunchy salad with avocado crème/Deconstructed baba ghanoush with homemade sourdough/Field and chestnut mushroom risotto with miso
My ingredient of the week has been avocado. We all know this is already a popular choice and I feel somewhat critical by advocating it as an ingredients, as it is not the most sustainable choice. However, if you do feel like treating yourself every now and then, avocado can be a god-damn lovely treat. Not only is it a great source of healthy fats, but its mild and creamy flavour and texture works as a vegan alternative to pretty much any creamy dairy product. For example, I use it as a foundation for dressings, crèmes, smoothies, pasta sauces. Just blend it up with a touch of liquid (plant milk, water, lemon or lime juice) to make it as smooth as possible. This week I used it to make a creamy Caesar dressing (avocado, lemon, dash of water, dijon mustard, salt and pepper, nutritional yeast, 1tbsp cider vinegar), an avocado crème to go with my enchiladas (avocado, yoghurt, garlic, lemon, salt and pepper) and a green smoothie bowl.
Green smoothie bowl with avocado
The seasonal ingredient of the week this week is asparagus. For me, asparagus is the quintessential spring/summer ingredient and I revere in the delight of its simple being. No need to do anything really to asparagus. It is perfect just grilled, roasted, steamed, or mandolined into thin shavings, with a dash of olive oil and lemon but pretty much naked. Even the rookiest chef can seem like Michel Roux using this vegetable. Other than that, you can toss it into risottos, stir fries, pasta dishes, tarts, whatever - it works every time. Just don’t overcook it, because that soggy, stringy stuff is not asparagus as it should be known.
Food waste tip of the week tags onto the sourdough trend. Now pretty much everyone has experienced the heaven that is freshly, baked homemade sourdough and will not be able to go back to Waitrose own, there is just one obstacle to tackle. That is the waste that comes from making a sourdough starter. However, a simple and fun way to use this waste is by oiling a pan and chucking it in to fry up a little pancake. You can personalise this with different spices and herbs, drizzle with different sauces, pile with different toppings, use it as a flatbread, a pizza base, a sandwich, whatever! It adds a touch of gourmet to any bread-based recipe and its sour tartness brings new levels of savoury. If you like Ethiopian fermented flatbread, otherwise known as 'Injera', you will love this.
Cookbook of the week: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s ‘Light and Easy: Healthy Recipes for Every Day'
In light of the stream of contemporary cookbooks flooding the shelves nowadays, this one is an oldie but a goodie. Clue is in the name – it focusses on stress-free, healthy in the home. It is interesting as it is ahead of time of the dairy-free/vegan trends but is definitely Hugh’s motive with this publication. It includes both a mixture of traditional and progressive recipes using humble and seasonal fruit and veg as the core of the dishes. It also presents the perfect balance of nutritious and comforting options. Aside from his very appealing veg dishes and salads, his baked bready recipes are particularly unique. Examples are the carrot cornbread, fruity soda bread and rye digestives. I always found the River Cottage to be one of the most calming shows to watch and so can find the same sense of ease and comfort in this book, whilst channelling Hugh at all times in the kitchen – what an absolute delight.
Blog of the week: Mindful Chef
I know this is technically a food delivery company, but I treat their website as a sort of blog/index of recipes, most of which align with my kind of cooking. Their dishes are substantial, but all health-focussed. They produce an array of balanced meat, fish vegetarian and vegan dinners. They are simple but with a decent amount of flavour. Perhaps some of the dishes seem a bit bland. However, I tested on of their vegan dishes the other night, which looked particularly good. It was the ‘Roasted Broccoli and Chickpea Masala with Black Rice’. I really liked the idea of the pairing of sticky black rice with a creamy curry sauce and roasted flavours. I actually prefer roasting my veg as well before adding it to sauces as it does absorb the sauce in the most wonderful way. I shall certainly be returning for more ideas from Mindful Chef. Previously, I have also made their veggie burgers with portobello mushroom buns and avo salsa, which was verging on spectacular.
Roasted broccoli, fennel and chickpea masala with black rice
Recipe of the week: ‘Jackfruit fishcakes’ from Rose Elliot's 'Complete Vegan'
I have a bit of a thing about meat/fish substitutes. I definitely fall into the vegan ‘category’ who would prefer to stage the vegetable at the centre of the dish, rather than use processed ingredients to try and resemble a meaty/fishy taste or texture. Perhaps it is because I am not yet at that point where I really miss or crave it. Having said all that, jackfruit excites me. I feel that though it is tinned, it is pretty unprocessed and feels just like using an artichoke, but firmer in texture and therefore more adaptable. I love fishcakes and so wanted to see if I could resemble them with jackfruit upon stumbling across this recipe the other day. The verdict was yes! They were uncannily fishy. One thing I would suggest is to go easier on the vinegar and heavy on the mustard and nori (or any form of seaweed for that matter). I would also make them as chunky as possible, as the texture is really nice. I coated mine in coarse polenta rather than breadcrumbs (because why not) and this worked really well as well!
My take on Jackfruit 'No-Fishcakes' with a polenta crust
Instagram of the week: Florence Pugh
I have recently discovered the wonder of Florence Pugh. There is something about her effortless British charm, wit, I-don’t-give-a-fuck attitude and serenity that is so alluring. And I love that Florence is a fan of the ‘crunch’. I have been loving her cooking videos based in her home in LA, that highlight everything I love about … LA. Since watching her make her crunchy salads, I have been loving making ‘crunchy’ and ‘chopped’ salads that are all mixed, rather than separated like a buddha bowl, with a simple vinaigrette of olive oil, vinegar, lemon, mustard, salt and pepper. So easy but so good.
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